Lady La Salle And The La Salle Library

I was extremely fortunate to come across a complete bound year of Delineator from 1881 on eBay. Needless to say, I couldn't wait to get my hands on it. I practically assulted the poor postman when he delivered the package! Immediately I began carefully turning each page and sighing over each new image that my eyes saw. But my breath was taken away when I saw this one, and I knew I just had to make it.

I decided that I wanted to make the dress out of cotton and overlay it with a dotted organza. It took a while to find the right polka-dot pattern, but with the shopping tenacity that I'm known for I did find it! The polka-dot embroidered organdy trim was available at Cheap Trims, so I ordered 2 of 3 different widths and 1 insertion lace type. As everyone knows, I'm not one to be covered up so I wanted to change the neckline so that it would be open. I also determined that it would be a major pain to try and pleat both the organza and the cotton to make the underskirt (not to mention that the overskirt would cover the pleats up), so instead I just made a large pleated ruffle at the bottom. All of my supplies finally arrived at the house, and I was ready to get started.

I'm going to use the fantail skirt again. It's becoming a habit! LOL!!!! I'm going to do an 18" pleated ruffle on the front and sides. The front overskirt is simply just 2 criss-crossed pieces of the organza trimmed with one of the embroidered dot organdy. I'm not going to flat line the skirt because it will be constructed out of two layers of fabric to start with.

I was planning on using my embroidered lace to do the pleats on the train. However, after looking at the photo again I realized that I need to make those using the purple cotton and the organdy! Did you happen to see how many rows are on the train? Someone shoot me now! It took me 4 days, 96 hours of work, to make 4 rows of pleated ruffles-----ugh! The only reason why it went as fast as it did was because I used my antique Simplicity pleating tool. Its perfect for making ruffles up to 6" wide. Anything over that, and I'm back to making them by hand.

The overskirt will share the same waistband as the underskirt, so I did a side skirt closure. The back of the overskirt is simply the back pattern piece of the fantail skirt with two rows of casings on each side, gathered up.

The pattern for the cascading ruffled organza going down the back of the overskirt was cut free-handed. I simply looked at the image in Delineator and went from there. The fabric is cut on the fold, with only the tails at the bottom separated. It is simply gathered up the center and edged with the organdy trim. I attached it simply with some small safety pins for ease of removal for storage.

Well, the skirt is completed along with the dust ruffle. The dust ruffle is rather ordinary. I made 5 rows of plain cotton ruffles without any embroidery or stitching on it. The reason for this is because I'm planning on wearing this dress out in the grass, dirt, concrete, ect. If I had used net lace or anything with embroidery, it would eventually look like shredded paper draggin behind me. I did put one row of gathered polka-dot lace on the top side of the very bottom row of ruffles. It peaks out just under the pleats but doesn't hang over the cottom ruffle. It is a HEAVY skirt!

I used the 1885 Curiass Bodice pattern for the top. Now I know what you're thinking-----why would I use a Late Bustle pattern for a Natural Form gown? Well, its because of all the "fluff" in the back. I've learned that it lays much nicer for me with these style dresses. I also cut the front hem different to get that severe point in the front. The front is closed with 15 small pearl buttons.

A spring walking dress such as this needs a matching hat and parasol of course! So I found a hat from 1881 Peterson's that fit the bill. I got a plain white synthetic straw hat and edged the brim with wire, then covered it with white extra wide double fold bias tape. This is how the hat holds its shape. "Scrap" pleats lined the underside of the brim. The top of the hat has a hat band made of the same fabric with a bow in the back, and its decorated with white ostrich plumes and various silk flowers including wysteria!